Gavin Bond's candid photographs of prominent designers and the first supermodels at the Paris shows perfectly caught the 90s fashion scene

Early in the 1990s, fashion shows were still a fairly undeveloped industry. If you looked a little deeper, things weren't nearly as tightly controlled as they are now. When she was a student at Central Saint Martins, Jo Jones—who is now the fashion editor of the Observer—was able to get entry for herself and fellow student Gavin Bond to see the backstage area of a Vivienne Westwood show in Paris.

Places to go: Claudia Schiffer makes a quick exit

Just for kicks: top left, Kate Moss at Galliano for Dior, 1998. Top right, Stella Tennant goes nose-to-nose pre-show. Above left, Kristen McMenamy at John Galliano for Christian Dior spring/summer 98. Above right, Emma Balfour adjusts her shoes backstage at Paris Fashion Week.

The resultant film-shot photos were published in The Times as well as Jones' final magazine piece. As he would be for the next ten years, Bond was in the right place at the right time. His backstage shots captured the raw, unedited elegance of the early 1990s. Bond became friends with everyone from the hair and makeup artists to the models, dressers, DJs, designers, assistants, editors, and even security personnel. He was so comfortable backstage that when other photographers would be kicked out prior to the event, he was permitted to stay with Naomi, Kate, Cindy, Linda, and Helena. Despite the ball dresses, extensive makeup, and unique hairstyles, these magnificent animals were more than eager to pose, make goofy faces, joke about, and just be themselves. Unflinching honesty may be seen in these startlingly honest photos. Christy Turlington refers to them as "sweet, stolen moments" in the book's preface.

Last minute details: Stella Tennant and Karl Lagerfeld backstage at his 1994 Chanel haute couture presentation.
For the finishing touches, see Stella Tennant and Karl Lagerfeld backstage during the 1994 Chanel haute couture presentation. Right, Gianni Versace, Claudia Schiffer, and Linda Evangelista in 1994. Vivienne Westwood in 1993 at her Battersea studio, far right.

Being Gavin Bond Idea has just released a new novel that begins during the lockdown when Bond was forced to remain at home for a longer period of time than he has ever done since his student trip to Paris. He started perusing his unusual collection of early work, which included boxes of negatives, contact sheets, scrapbooks, Polaroids, clippings, and letters from designers. Picture after frame of pure enchantment arose from the access and confidence he was able to establish with his subjects. He created this technique out of necessity utilizing the limited light and just three apertures, depending on whether he was photographing full length, figures, or faces. He didn't miss anything thanks to this streamlined method.

Alek Wek chooses a quiet area and plugs in.
Shalom Harlow looking pretty in pink backstage at John Galliano's spring/summer 1998 collection.
Dress to impress: 1998 backstage at John Galliano's first Dior spring/summer collection at the InterContinental Paris le Grand, which included this stunning tulle gown.
Alek Wek finds a peaceful area and is plugged in (top left). Shalom Harlow, upper right, backstage at the 1998 spring/summer John Galliano show wearing a flapper wig. Above, a model wearing a tulle gown backstage for John Galliano's debut Dior spring/summer 1998 collection at the InterContinental Paris le Grand.

You get the impression that you are in the photographer's shoes when viewing the images, which are currently on display as part of Bond's first solo exhibition at Hamiltons Gallery in London until October 29. You are right there experiencing the thrill of the moment, the laughter, the lipstick, and the champagne. The models' perfect skin, the difficult corset lacing, the cigarette smoke (imagine smoking backstage! ), and those crucial finishing touches—a spritz of hairspray given by Karl Lagerfeld, a tense-looking Gianni Versace reviewing the final running order—are all visible up close.

Shhh! Karl Lagerfeld during his Chanel haute couture presentation in 1994, quiet backstage. 1993's top right image shows a teenage Kate Moss getting dressed at Vivienne Westwood. Linda Evangelista for the autumn/winter 1998 Versace Haute Couture line is seen above left. Christy Turlington in 1993 at Vivienne Westwood, top right.

There is a real sense of nostalgia for anyone who was part of the fashion industry at this time, a feeling of innocence, however misplaced. ‘If you were there, you would feel the same,’ writes Turlington. ‘If you weren’t, and you love fashion and culture, you will be wanting to time-travel back to “our time”.’

Cheeky snappy: left, Stella Tennant at Vivienne Westwood, SS97. Right, model friends in matching makeup apply the finishing touches.

After party: a quiet moment backstage for Yves Saint Laurent

Hamiltons Gallery is the source of all images by Gavin Bond.

Being Gavin Bond is on display at hamiltonsgallery.com in London till October 29. accompanying book, available at  ideanow online and doverstreetmarket.com for £75.

Thanks to Tamsin Blanchard, compiled by Bemi Shaw at The Guardian whose reporting provided the original basis for this story.